Still More - Q & A’s
New additions from the “Question Crew”!
Q: “Where do you hunt upland birds?”
A: I would sooner tell you my favorite elk hunting spot than where I hunt upland birds; mostly because northern Idaho has more elk than pheasants - no joke! Truthfully, I hunt a great deal in states other than my beloved Idaho. You can read more on that subject (here).
Q: “When I put a check cord on my young pointing dog, she gets extremely excited and runs to the end full-force - the whole time. Is it supposed to be like that?”
A: That happens about everytime the pup is introduced to a check cord but should reduce over time. The way to help the dog know that the end of the rope is coming is to call its name and/or blow a whistle with a single, sharp, sound (“tut”!) to have the dog change directions. In this way, she is learning another command and that she can save herself from hitting the end of the rope at high speed.
Q: “My young dog gets “crazy” excited when I go to put a field collar on her - squirming and rolling around. How can I get her to calm down?”
A: You’re not the “Lone Ranger” - I have seen that reaction plenty of times. I begin at a very early age to make my dogs sit before a leash is attached; that becomes their response anytime I go to place something around their neck. To stop excited reactions to collar or leash attachment, I suggest using a collar that is already buckled that can slip over the dog’s head. While watching TV, call the dog over, make it sit (or stand - whoa) and slip the collar over its head and send it off, (“okay!”). Next commercial, call it back, get it still, and slip the collar off - all very matter-of-fact. And repeat.
Q: “I was told that AKC doesn’t recognize the silver version of the Labrador Retriever because they had been cross-bred with Weimaraners to get that coloration.”
A: The silver coated Labrador variation was brought about by a color variation caused by a recessive dilution gene. This gene, present in the Labrador gene pool, lightens the chocolate coat color to a silver hue. AKC will accept the dog as a chocolate variation of Labrador.
Q: “I’ve been applying a single, quick, nick on the e-collar when my dog hesitates or doesn’t respond to the command, is there a time when I should use a continuous stimulation”?
A: Well, “yes”. A quick “nick” on the e-collar is a reminder for a dog that knows the command to follow through. For situations where your dog doddles while coming when called, I would suggest a continuous annoying stimulation on the e-collar until the dog arrives. This teaches the dog that they need to respond quickly to your command AND that they - the dog - is in control of the stimulation.
They soon figure out that it can be prevented by an appropriate response and, once begun, they can turn it off in the same manner. When your dog is commanded to heel, or similar situations, - as long as you know the dog understands the command given and does not comply - I would use an annoying stimulation until the dog complies. It is important to note that the level of stimulation on the e-collar must be annoying - not harsh! If the dog is being jolted harshly, it is too concerned with that to effectively respond to your command.
I will use a longer and appropriatly harsh jolt when I’m trying to show a dog that something is very bad for them. For example, when breaking any interest in snakes, livestock, chasing cars, etc., I will introduce the undesirable object to the dog with a harsh, longer, jolt while showing my dog that the object is frightful and should be avoided. Even trying to drag the dog toward cattle or a road or anything that I do not want them to approach while jolting them in the process. Then, quickly turning away and stopping the stimulation.
Q: “My dog jumps up on people, counters, doors, everything! How do I get that to stop?”
A: Dogs do things because they have learned that the action has gotten them what they want - let’s be clear. It can begin as early as puppyhood when they leaped-up onto your pant leg to be lifted up and coddled. Jump up onto the door - they get let out. Each action can be different enough to a dog that they will have to be discouraged individually. With people, pups are attracted to faces and when you no longer lift them up they will still try to get there.
Dogs generally telegraph when they are going to jump up by making eye contact. That’s when you can thrust out a stiff knee, bop them on the noggin, or nick them with the e-collar along with a consistent command to discourage - (No! - Down! - Off! - whatever). Door jumpers or counter surfing can be discouraged by bringing the dog to the door/counter, lift the front half up toward the item, and repremanded clearly. You will likely have to keep a keen eye on the dog to catch it testing this action. Be consistent and clear about your displeasure with the dog’s action. Depending on the dog and the length of time it has been allowed to jump up onto things, you may be required to keep a thumb on this for some time.
Q: “We came across this (hunting) dog quite by accident and was wondering if I could take it hunting. I tried dragging a pheasant wing across the yard but the dog showed no interest in trailing it. Does this mean that the dog doesn’t have any interest in hunting?”
A: Not at all; it more likely means that the dog has never had the occasion to trail this particular scent. More to the point (see what I did there?!), a dried wing in some conditions doesn’t leave much scent at all and, with no previous experience, the dog has really nothing to entice it.
Start with a slice of hot dog dragged a short distance and slightly hidden from view. Bring the dog to the beginining of the drag and use a term such as, “Hunt Dead!” or “Find It!” Step away and let the dog figure it out. When the hot dog chunk is found, praise the dog on its good fortune. You can practice in the house as well. Roll or toss the food item without the dog’s knowledge, call the dog to you, get it still, and use the command to search. Eventually, when the dog shows that it completely understands, drag a bird carcass in the yard or field in a similar manner. By using the same consistant command - and the dog has had some opportunity to retrieve a few tossed dead birds - the dog will very likely seek the source of the scent.
Obviously, this practice is to train dogs to hunt for dead or wounded game. Though trailing scent is practical for flushers, (at times, pointers), using it as training to hunt lively hidden birds is not recommended (by me) for pointing dogs.
Q: “When searching for the hidden birds in the field, you sometimes cannot recall the exact spot; to make it easier, why don’t you mark them in some manner?”
A: Dogs have a type of color blindness but they aren’t “blind!” I use natural markers to have a general idea of the bird launcher’s location. Tying a ribbon or surveyor’s tape on tall grass to mark the hidden launchers will be noticed by the dogs and they will soon begin making the connection and pointing the ribbons. Trust me…
Q: “You mentioned that you don’t allow dogs up on your couch or in your lap unless you say they can. I allowed it a few times and now I can’t make my dog stay down. How do you make them wait until allowed up?”
A: Basically, people lose control of the situation very early when the pup crawls up onto their lap. You’ve been picking them up and sitting with them so what’s the differrence? The difference is that “they” are making the decision - not you!
Once they are capable of crawling or jumping up onto furniture, I make certain they learn “No - Down!” I don’t let the dog up on the furniture for almost a year. Once the proper location has been established, I will encourage the dog to come up while I’m seated. When they try to make that decision again, I tell them “No - Down!” They are never allowed on furniture without one of us. My dogs soon learn the rule and will place their head on our lap or chair as a manner of “asking” permission. At which time, I can decide to allow with “Okay!” or not with “No!”
If a dog is uneffected by a command and a push or other appropriate physical reprimand, you can place an e-collar on the dog and be ready to use it along with the command, (“No - Down!”). I haven’t had to use the e-collar for that purpose on our dogs.
- Enjoy Your Dog!
