“More”-Gun Dog Q & A
Here’s the next installment of “Gun Dog Q & A”!
Q: “Do you have puppies for sale?”
A: Though we have had puppies several times over the years, our efforts are not centered around breeding setters. Due to the age of our female - and the fact that she has had two litters - we are holding off until an appropriate (foot-hunting) female setter is located. That said, I have several “contacts” and will get you in touch with local breeders (for several gun dog breeds) that can help meet your expectations.
Our efforts are not centered around breeding gun dogs but I can probably help you locate the kind of dog you are looking for.
Q: “You seem to have a reason for everything; why do you pet dogs forward - against the grain - while the dog is on point?”
A: Dogs have a tendency to oppose pressure. You have noticed that when the leash is held tight or you pull against it, your dog struggles forward. Similarly, when you push against your pup, it will resist. By pushing your dog slightly toward the pointed object (bird), we are trying to eliminate the inclination toward forward motion of the dog. However, to develop a more intense point, this should be done sparingly; allowing the dog to “focus” on its prey.
Q: “I wanted to ask your opinion on taking (my puppy) out to the hills and just letting him explore on the long check cord. His recall is not fantastic yet so, I could see this being a problem but the long lead should help with that - right?”
A: Oh, heavens - Yes! Young dogs need the exercise and experience of various outdoor environments. It is my practice to let them run free at first then, when they get older, while dragging a check cord. It’s an excellent time to work together on recall (using the check cord, if needed) and taking direction. All while getting familiar with various smells, conditions, and critters.
Q: “As you have seen while training at your facility, (my young pointing dog) enjoys retrieving. She will even retrieve the ground hogs I shoot when they dig holes in my pasture. Should I let her do that?”
A: That’s a very tough question. Some folks consider a dog that hunts feather (upland & waterfowl) and fur a more complete hunting companion. Praised for such things, versatile hunting breeds of dogs are enrolled in hunt tests that reward such behavior. Personally, I discourage any desire for the want of furry creatures. Bothering with rabbits, gophers, ground squirrels and the like, is annoying to someone (like me) that just wants to bag birds. However, at a young age, I wouldn’t discourage my dog from retrieving anything to me. I (again, my preference) would likely not have my pointing dog around while I’m dispatching varmits. That way, I can refine and reward the search, point, and retrieval of game birds - and only game birds.
Q: “I encourage my (pointing dog) to chase rabbits because it develops prey drive, he seems to enjoy the activity, and it’s good exercise.”
A: In my way of thinking, “Prey Drive” is a term that is tremendously over-used. Prey drive should have been developed by smart breeding, not by poor training techniques. A pointing dog that is allowed to chase creatures merely develops a desire to chase creatures. Over the years, I have seen the result and some dogs just don’t recover. A dog that is distracted from its main purpose - locate and point feathered game - eventually chases flushed birds into the next county and chases after any other creature that crosses its path. The practice is not only undesireable, it is dangerous. Chasing dogs run themselves into barbed wire, get lost, trounced by other animals, run off cliffs and under vehicles; to name a few.
Barbed-wire can be a dog’s worse enemy!
Just one example how running out of control can end in disaster!
Q: “I’ve observed you call to your dogs, make them kennel, and they remain there. When do you use “stay” as a command?”
A: I’ve been asked something similar several times and the answer is simple - never. Well, I can’t say “never” because I catch myself using that redundant term occasionally. When I have a dog comply with a command - kennel, sit, come, etc. - that is the position it must hold until given another command. Until I release the dog from its current position, that’s where it has been taught to remain. Therefore, the term “stay” is redundant.
Q: “I know you use a whistle to communicate with your dogs in the field, what kind of whistle do you suggest?”
A: I used a metal referee style whistle for decades and still have it. I find that most any whistle of that style is fine but there is one small catch - on terribly cold days, the pea inside can freeze in place and it won’t work. There are pea-less whistles that are loud enough (some incredibly loud) for distant pointing dogs. The only whistle style I would NOT use on pointing dogs are the long cylindrical whistles popular with retriever breeds. They are not loud enough to carry the distances that pointing dogs may be hunting.
Q: “I prefere using the beeping noise on the ecollar to control my dog. Whistles and yelling make too much noise and ruin the quiet experience. Can you see a down-side?”
A: Well, I understand that feeling but, as a communication technique, that is extremely limited. I mean, the beep can only convey one message; usually return or come. I use the e-collar beep to have my dogs reduce their distance from me when I’m concerned wiley roosters might flush wild if they hear too much noise. Otherwise, I have three commands I use with my whistle that covers everything I need. Of course, voice can communicate many more but it is annoying when people shout at distant dogs.
Q: “I have a dog that is very food aggressive - toward other dogs and people. Do you have any suggestions?”
A: This issue doesn’t come up in hunting breeds very often, however, it isn’t out of the ordinary when it comes to border collies, Australian shepherds and the like. To be honest, food aggression (aggressive behavior in general) can be a long-term commitment. “Commitment” is the key term here.
People: If your dog is aggressive toward people around its food or while eating, one technique is to practice hand-feeding a few treats daily before feeding time. This, along with placing yourself in a position where your dog can see you while it eats. As the dog begins to tolerate you at a distance, you move just a bit closer until you can sit right by the dog as it eats. Seated in a chair may likely be more desirable than standing – that position may seem less threatening to the aggressor.
Dogs: Training for the acceptance of other dogs can be similar but for protection and prevention, an open style (cage-like) indoor kennel should be used so the aggressor can see the other dog easily. Feed them both, at the same time, a bit of high-value (very attractive to the dogs) food at a distance that the aggressor can tolerate. Again, moving closer over time as the aggressor relaxes. It is important that the same non-aggressive dog is used or the process will have to be started all over again.
Q: “My dog used to come directly to me when called and now she just runs passed me. I have to catch her by the collar or she will continue. How can I fix that?”
A: I have witnessed dog owners use the return command (come or here or both) but may actually want to just change direction, (say, about-face). The owner calls the dog to “come” but that’s not what the owner really wanted and doesn’t require the dog to comply. When the return command is used in this way, the dog learns that “come” can mean race passed to get ahead of the owner and continue. Eventually, a confused dog will assume all commands to return simply require a “fly-by”.
A “Fly-By” occures when a dog doesn’t know exactly what the return (or “Come”) command means.
The fix is to regain control using a check cord or e-collar. Command your dog to come and give it a good tug (momentary sting on the e-collar) after the dog runs passed its mark, (your side). Use a hand to tap the side you wish the dog to settle next to and repeat, “Come!” By doing this consistantly, your dog will soon learn what your recall actually means. Perhaps, use a different term for a change in direction; something like, “come” to return to you and “here” to make note of a change in course.
That’s about all the time I have for today. But, before I go, I’ll leave you with a few summer-time “Pro Tips”!
Try to avoid wearing sunglasses while you’re training your dog. Dog’s pick up a load of information that you convey with your eyes; covering them can slow or confuse the learning process for the dog.
Rely more on water workouts for summer exercise. You can mix in water retrieves during land workouts where possible. Unless you’re (field) training just before dawn, the temperatures may not cool down enough before sundown in the evening.
Trimming or hand-stripping (depending on the breed) hair will keep dogs running cooler in the heat of summer and early season hunting trips. I trim my setters hair in late May and, sometimes, again in late August.
Again, thank you for all of these and other questions we may cover in the future. Until then, get outdoors and…
- Enjoy Your Dog!
